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| Collagen Gel - Cosmetics Component |
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Collagen gel is thick, iridescent gel and the dispersion of collagen proteins fractions (type I collagen) soluble in water in a solution of weak, organic acid (lactic acid). Special selection of process parameters allowed to obtain collagen in the form of a triple helix, thus avoiding the destruction of collagen structures found in live organisms. The product is a source of native collagen, and not a hydrolysate of collagen proteins! The production process allowed also for an additional enrichment of the preparation with elastin beneficial for skin. The material is obtained from the skins of rare, freshwater species of fish.
Collagen is a high molecular weight protein comprising of three polypeptide chains twisted into the structure of super helix. The protein, apart from its specific structure, has characteristic amino acid content. The main amino acids are glycine, proline and, found almost only in collagen, hydroxyproline. The amino acids in the polypeptide chain of collagen are arranged in a recurrent three-component sequence Gly-X-Y, which mostly contains proline or hydroxyproline as X. Collagen is a protein commonly used in cosmetics. Its enormous popularity stems from the fact that it is the main component of skin. It should be noticed that among many types of collagen in skin, type I is the most common. Collagen fibres along with elastin fibres are responsible for the proper elasticity and flexibility of skin, which are the basic determinants of young looks. Moreover, due to high content of hydroxyproline, collagen has the ability to bind significant amounts of water, which conditions proper moisturisation of skin and its firmness.When a person is approximately 25 years old, the process of collagen fibres deformation starts and the fibres are subject to intermolecular cross-linking formation and degradation. The process is accelerated and made more drastic due to the influence of external and internal conditions causing molecular stress. The cross-linking formation significantly decreases the ability to bind water, thus leading to a dramatic decrease in moisturisation, which leaves skin rough and colourless. As a result of the fibres degradation process the scaffolding they are parts of collapses, resulting in wrinkles and deep creases. The cosmetics containing collagen are mostly intended for mature skin, as well as dry skin damaged by adverse effects of external factors, such as temperature, wind and UV rays. Completing deficits of collagen in skin, they have regenerating effects. The improvement of the following biochemical parameters is especially visible – firmness, elasticity and smoothness, which restore young looks. Collagen gel has film forming characteristics, which means it has the ability to form on skin a thin protective film with multiple beneficial effects. On the one hand, the film to a large extent limits the transepidermal water loss and significantly increases moisturisation, as well as firmness of skin and additionally limits the penetration of harmful substances. On the other hand, the protective film firms the skin and makes it feel nice. With high concentrations of collagen in cosmetics, the visible lifting effect is instant. In hair preparations collagen significantly simplifies disentangling and improves hair elasticity by means of the protective film. What is more, the protein film protects hair from the loss of water, thus improving the moisturisation. Additionally collagen added to washing cosmetics largely decreases their irritating potential, which is especially welcomed by people with sensitive skin.
Collagen gel is an excellent source of biologically active type I collagen for all cosmetic formulations, such as O/W and W/O emulsions. Collagen gel might also be used in other cosmetic formulations, which do not require the clarity of a product. It is also especially recommended for cosmetics with strong moisturising, vitalising and regenerating effects intended for skin, body and hair care. It is recommended to add collagen gel in the amount of 2-10% to achieve moisturising and regenerating effects and higher than 10% to achieve the lifting effect. It is recommended to add collagen gel in the temperature lower than 34oC and pH of 3.0‑7.0. In order to simplify the introduction into a mixture, a solution of the material can be prepared. Collagen gel is compatible with most cosmetic materials used.
Collagen gel is a product containing protein in native form, thus needs to be stored with special care. It should be stored in originally closed packaging in temperature lower than 26oC and protected from direct sun.The product is microbiologically safe, however, after opening, it should be used as quickly as possible and secondary microbiological infections should be avoided. |
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